Sunday, March 22, 2009

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gyeongbukgung was the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty. It was built three years after the Joseon dynasty was founded and was named by Jeong Do-jeong; “Gyongbuk” means, “ The New Dynasty will be Greatly Blessed and Prosperous”. The “gung” or “palace” was built in the heart of Korea’s Capital City in 1395. For two hundred years it continually increased it’s size and majesty until the Japanese invasion of 1592 when it was introduced to flames and then reduced to nothing more than ashes. For nearly 300 years, Gyeongbukgung’s ashes blew in the winds until 1867 when it’s restoration began.

The palace, just as Korea had a muddled history. It was built by Korea’s great Joseon Dynasty and served as a national monument and a symbol of sovereignty. Then in 1911, it’s ownership was taken by the Japanese government. In 1915, nearly 90% of the buildings were torn down for a Japanese exhibition. The grounds were also used as housing for US-Military officials, and Korean Presidents. The palace has been undergoing restoration since 1990, and is to be completed in 2010.

During the ancient years of Gyeongbokgung’s prime, it was enclosed by a 16 foot high wall that stretch over 6,000 feet around the perimeter. Mount Bugaksan is a constant presence in the rear of the facilities. Gyeongbokgung has four main gates to the North, East, South, and West. Each gate is name after a season and an earth elements; originated from yin and yang concepts.

After a short subway ride, Steve and I made it to the, “ Gwanghwamun” (Summer and Fire) gate. The gate was shielded from tourists by guards and flag bearers dressed in traditional clothing. We arrived right as the guards were changing. Drums were played and the guards silently marched into a new formation. The guards wore red silk robes, black hats, and were armed with swords, bows, knives, and spears. The flag bearers wore purple and held brightly covered flags high into the air.






Once inside the three story gate, we were immediately shadowed by Geunjeongjeon, which was the king’s main hall where all foreign affairs were managed. It had only one huge room with a high ceiling, a central throne, and magnificent decorations.




The compounds were huge and we continued to meander through the various vicinities…each having their own purpose in their day. My favorites were:

-Hamwhadang, which is where the king kept all of his concubines and prospects. The name actually means, “gate of receiving plenty”. It was in the rear gardens.



-Jibokjae, which was used as a residence



-Gyeonghoeru Pavilion-This structure was built in the center of a man made pond. When the king had banquets and parties for foreign envoys, they were brought to the pavilion by boat. The parties were held on the upper level to give a view of the entire palace grounds.



-Hyangwonjeong-This was built on an islet in the center of a pond and is only accessible by a bridge. It was created by King Gojong to forge political independence from his father. It is here that Empress Myeongseong was assassinated by the Japanese in 1895.



We also spent a portion of time outside of the Korean Folk Museum where there is a huge pagoda, a place to play traditional Korean games and various sculptures. We had fun roaming around the kimchi pots, Joseon statues, and even the Phallicism display.





Under the new spring sun, Gyeongbokgung was a great place to spend one of Spring’s Saturdays. The grounds were a great symbol of Korea’s majesties and Korea’s historical difficulties. The ancient grounds and the newly reconstructed buildings were a look into past troubles and current successes. Inside of the 16 foot palace walls we could imagine a great king and his riches, and on the outside we could see the skyscrapers of modern riches. Gyeongbokgung gave us a glimpse of the dynasty that was blessed and prosperous.

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