Sunday, December 13, 2009

Penis Park: Samcheok, South Korea



I’m usually a fan of the underdog, in any situation. So, when I heard about one of Korea’s best kept secrets, of a place that Korea wasn’t quite proud of, a place that they kept out of all tourists books…I had to do more research.

It turns out there is an entire sea-side park on the Eastern Coast of Korea full of penis statues. My friends and I did enough research to find that the place truly existed. We weren’t perverted enough just to take a trip to see some phallic statues, so we included it in one of our weekend trips!

In the same August-weekend that we went to Andong to see the Soju musem and Hahoe folk village, we also wandered off to Samcheok to check out this ridiculous park. It was pretty far away from any main villages. We had to take an hour bus ride into the hills, up and down windy roads to get there. When we arrived, we paid about $1.50 to enter. Fortunately, we were the only immature ones there…The park was full of giggling old ladies, foreigners like us, and men that probably felt a bit inferior.





The park is set alongside a gorgeous coast. It’s contents however are a bit inappropriate. Since I’m sure you’re wandering what it’s all about, I’ve included the story according to Korean folklore:

A story is told that once, a beautiful young virgin from the area loved to collect seaweed in a small sea-side town which depended on fishing for it’s survival.

The young girl fell madly in love and spent all of her days with her fiancé. Since she loved to collect sea weed, one day, her fiancé took her to an island so that she could collect seaweed til her heart was content. He himself had fishing to do that day. He left her to collect sea weed and promised that he could come back for her at the end of the day. Out of his control, a terrible storm came up later that day and he was unable to come back for her. As she waited on the beach, she was knocked into the sea by waves and drowned.





After that, all parts of the village were drowning in grief. The heavens, the seas, and all of the villagers mourned for her. In the rise of agony, the fish stopped biting. The dead virgin’s heartache and sad spirits were enough to put the fish in a sour mood as well. Life in the town was very grave, as everything had once depended on the fish.

From this point, there are two different stories, but both have to do with a man exposing himself at the water’s edge.
One says that a handsome, young man removed his pants to pee in the sea….
The second states that he was pleasing himself……

Either way, the sight of a handsome young man and his penis excited the dead virgin and all at once, the fish flocked back into Samcheok.

The small town was overjoyed. They decided that the key to fishing prosperity, was to keep her spirits happy. In-turn, the fish would be happy and would continue to bit. So, to appease the dead-virgin, a seaside park full of penises was….erected.

The result is outstanding! There is amazing beauty along the coast and through the park. There are also penises of every shape and size! We couldn’t help, but giggle, point, and take a ton of inappropriate pictures. I’m sure there’s no other place like it!

Asan: Oldest Hot Springs in Korea

My friends and I were in need of another get away (and wanted to try something Korean without the risk of being seen by someone we knew!) So, we started asking our Korean assistants at work what were popular “Korean” things to do. Eventually, we decided to check out a Hot Springs area in Korea.

A simple google search led us to various areas of Korea and various Hot Springs Water Parks, Resorts, hotels, etc. So, we again asked our Korean friends for some advice and they told us to check out The Onyang Hot Springs in Asan because they are the oldest and most famous in Korea.

Asan is only 30 minutes, South East from Seoul, by KTX train. We grabbed doughnuts and soju and boarded an 11 a.m. train. We arrived in Asan not much later and headed to the hotel that was suggested to us.

Onyang Hot Springs at the Grand Hotel in Asan was founded more than one thousand years ago and has been used my many kings and other famous figures. There was even a photo of Jimmy Carter visiting the springs! The hot springs waters are naturally 57 degrees Celsius (about 134 degrees Fahrenheit). The natural hot springs waters are supposed to be great for the skin, body, and mind. It is also supposed to cure various ailments.

You can enter the spa, also known as “Jimjilbang” for only 5,000 won ($4). They are separated by male and female, so the four of us ladies had to leave Dan to fend for himself. Once you enter the locker room, you are given a key to a locker and you walk into a room full of lockers and naked women. It is Korean tradition to enjoy the spas completely nude. The four of use mei-gooks were somewhat nervous, but we decided to give it a go. We stripped down, locked up our stuff and timidly strutted into the spa area.

In the spa area, there were many different areas. There was a wet sauna, a soaking pool, an herbal pool, a cold bath, and even an outdoor hot springs wading pool. There were women of all ages, shapes, and sizes completely nude. It was fairly quite, and everyone seemed extremely comfortable. We embraced the situation, although we were immediately became the center of attention. We tried our the majority of the pools. It was a great experience-VERY RELAXING. After a few moment, the nudity didn’t even phase us. We each spent time together, alone, and just rotated around to try everything. One friend and I decided to indulge in a VERY Korean experience, being a “scrub down”. After soaking in the hot water, it is popular to have a Korean worker use a special type of soap and mitt to scrub the dead skin off of you. This is also done while you lie on a table naked. The women really use some muscle to scrub and scrape every inch of your body! It was a little bit awkward, but well worth it. Afterward, my skin was smooth as silk and shined! After a few hours, we put our clothes back on and went to get dinner!

I think I am definitely a fan of the Korean jimjilbang tradition! I’m glad I had the gall to do it! I think I’ll be getting a monthly scrub from now on!

"Sarang Nee"

This entry will be short, but I thought it would be fun to share. I recently told my students that my mouth was hurting because I had a tooth in the back of my mouth coming in. (Typically known as a wisdom tooth in the USA, because by the age that they grow in, you are said to have gained some type of wisdom)

The next day, my students informed me that it was called my “Sarang Nee”. This confused me, because I know that “sarang” means love. So, I asked my students, “Love tooth!?” and they said, “YES TEACHER!” In Korea, your molars are called a “love tooth” because they grow in around the time in your life when you should have found love.

Another interesting fact about this is that Koreans think women are like a Christmas cake. When I asked for an explanation about this, I was told that, “On December 25th, EVERYONE wants to have the Christmas cake-it is the perfect time and it is when the cake tastes the best. However, after the 25th, as soon as it is the 26th no one wants the cake anymore and it gets worse each day.

They say that women are the same….meaning that 25 is the best year and if you aren’t married off by then, you might have a tough time finding love!!

So, as my 24th birthday approaches, and my “love tooth” is on it’s way in….I’m curious about what the stars have lined up in my romantic life! I wouldn’t want to be left in the fridge like a Christmas cake!

Monday, September 7, 2009

Traditional che-sol Ceremony

My Korean friend, Jun recently invited me to a special ceremony at his parents’ house. The ceremony is held to mark the one year anniversary of his grandmother’s death. It is a traditional all over Korea and it is done for all family members.

Another American friend, and myself got dressed up and met Jun at the subway station. His parents live on the top floor of a small apartment building. After taking off our shoes, we entered a lovely and comfortable apartment. His family was more than welcoming-they immediately told me to sit down and offered me snacks and drinks. Fortunately for me, my friend Jun’s English is great! He played the role of translator all night! His parents and sister were able to understand nearly everything that I said, but weren’t always able to respond. Somehow, we still managed to have a great time and to get to know each other. Jun’s mother showered me with compliments, which I really enjoyed!  His mother and sister cooked the entire time-they refused my help even though I asked 100 times! Everyone else visited and relaxed. We all wore black, and no one wore red (it is a color that is considered rude and disrespectful at an even such as this).



At about 11:00 p.m., Jun’s family began to open all of the windows and doors in the house-I was told this was to allow the spirits of the ancestors flow freely into the house.

Jun put up a large screen with Korean writing on it. In front of the screen they placed a table. The most important things on the table were a small wooden case with his grandmother’s name and life accomplishments and two candles. His family arranged an entire feast on the table, in a very specific order. Then end of the table farthest from the screen was for fruit-which was then arranged according to the number of seeds in the fruit. The next row was for vegetables, the following row for main dishes. The main dishes that were animals (fish, chicken, etc.) had to be place with the tails at the West-since the sun rises in the East and sets in the West. In front of the dinner table, there was a smaller table with incense on it.






Once everything was arranged, the ceremony started. All of Jun’s family members bowed to their ancestors. Then, each member of the family took turns presenting Jun’s grandmother with rice wine. A small amount of the wine is poured into a cup, which must be swirled three times, and it is then placed near the candles. The chopsticks are also re-arranged multiple times in the order of the food that was favored by the specific ancestor. After more bowing, a few moments was allowed for either silence or for offering verbal memories of Jun’s grandmother.




When the ceremony was finished-Jun took the rice paper with his grandmother’s name on it outside. He lit the paper on fire, and allowed the ashes to blow away-this allows the spirit a peaceful exit from the home.



We then enjoyed a delicious meal, conversation, and rice wine. I feel so fortunate to have been able to participate in such a traditional Korean ceremony. The che-sol was such a beautiful and respectful ceremony. I feel as though I was a part of something truly special and sacred.

Busan or Bust

As our summer was quickly creeping away; three friends and I decided that we needed one last summer getaway before it was no longer an option! Our obvious destination was Busan, South Korea. Although Busan is the second largest city in Korea, it sits on the coast and has only 2 million residents. It is a popular destination for both locals and tourists and is a must-see for all of those who have lived in Korea.

One Friday after work, I rushed through the subway station to the KTX train terminal, where I was meeting my friends. We boarded the high-speed train at 8:00 and set off for Busan. We drank soju and played cards as our train moved towards Busan at a steady pace of 275 KPH (about 170 MPH). The three hour trip went quickly and we arrived in Busan at 11:00. We checked into a pension, freshened up, and hit the town.




Busan did have a lot of bright lights and a lot of bars-but it was clear that there weren’t nearly as many people! We bar hopped from place to place and ended our night with budechigae. (a famous Korean/US soup)



On Saturday, we relaxed on Haeundae beach (which has recently become popular since a Korean action film took place there). We drank soju, had fried chicken delivered, and people watched all day long.



That evening, we also hung out near the beach, drinking soju and laughing even more!



Sunday, we visited the local fish market. We browsed the rows and rows of live shell fish, crab. Octopus, squid, and numerous other sea creatures. Eventually we decided to purchase whole shrimp and clams. A few steps through the market late we also decided to buy a whole crab-which I got to hold before we ate it! The live goods were handed to a local restaurant owner who cooked them for us-the meal was delicious, and quite and experience!





We then boarded the train back to Seoul! It was a quick weekend, but it was well worth it! It was great to see a more relaxed Korean lifestyle, breathe in some fresh air, and get to know another popular city. Busan was a great break from Seoul as well as a nice slice of summer fun!

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

“Down in Daegu”

As much as I love living in Seoul; it can get old-just as anything else does! Occasionally, as members of the human race we need a change of scenery! As a result of that itch, my good friend Jean and I headed down to Daegu.

Daegu is in the Gyeongsang region of Korea-in the South East of the peninsula. Daegu is larger than Seoul in size, but has only 1/5 of Seoul’s population. It is considered the 4th largest city in Korea. Daegu has a rich history; ruins found in the area date back to 1500 BC. The city is also famous for a rich past in religion, education, and oriental medicine. Currently the city is a major business hub in it’s region. It is also a popular area for universities and sports.

We started our trip post-work on a Friday. We met at the station and boarded a 10:30 p.m. bus; soju and Coke in hand. We were the only two foreigners on the bus, as well as the only two who stayed awake-all of the Koreans fell asleep immediately. We enjoyed our drinks and conversation for the whole 3 hour ride.




Once arriving we checked into the “Pistol” motel and explored the area. Somehow we ended up staying in a slightly sketchy area full of love motels and business men’s clubs. We enjoyed some plum wine outside of Family Mart and then hit the bed!




Daegu was definitely more spread out than Seoul. It didn’t seem nearly as busy or fast paced. The air was definitely fresher! The change of scenery/fresh air was highly appreciated!

We started Saturday with a mediocre coffee and a taxi ride to Daegu National Museum. The museum featured relics from Korea’s 3 kingdoms, religious art, traditional folk displays. The museum was small, but interesting. We enjoyed browsing, but were slightly frustrated because we couldn’t read about the various relics.





Our second stop was Yangnyeongsi; the oriental medicine market. It used to be an open-air market, but in modern times is just an alley full of shops. Each shop specializes in special dried plants, herbs, and other medicinal products. The two specialties are reindeer antlers and ginseng. We browsed the shops and inhaled the aroma of ginseng for quite a while. We also visited the museum of oriental medicine-we learned a bit about it’s history and it’s uses. We finished our “healthy” part of the trip with Samgyetang (ginseng-stuffed chicken soup) and Insamju (ginseng liquor).







We also visited Duryu park. The park is next to Daegu tower, as well as an amusement park. We strolled through the park and found lots of interesting things to look at. The park was full of elderly men and women playing games, playing the accordion, and chatting amongst other things.





After a brief rest, we roamed through Yasigolmok, which is the “it” part of town. The area was packed with shops, restaurants, cafes, bars, and clubs-but wasn’t packed with people! It was so nice to be in a hip area without getting bumped into! We strolled the streets, ate dinner, and of course had a few drinks while bouncing from club to club. The nightlife in Daegu was similar to the nightlife in Seoul-drinks, dancing, street food, and late night taxis.




It was a short weekend, but it was a weekend spent outside of Seoul. I had a good time with great friends! I saw new things, got some fresh air, and met some new people! I hope to venture out of Seoul a bit more often!

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Jeonjaeng ginyeomgwan - War Memorial of Korea

War’s existence in our World is a sad reality. It has shaped our past, it is affecting the world we live in today, and it will likely continue to mold our future.

Korea is no stranger to war; it has seen many opponents and many wars throughout history. War has created many long-lasting emotions in Korea; some of anger, sadness, mistrust, and bitterness.




The War Memorial of Korea is a remembrance of those who have died and those who have suffered as a result of conflict in Korea’s history. It serves as an educator for those who have not lived through such trauma. The museum has memorabilia from various wars including:

• Ancient wars with the Hans of China
• Civil unrest between the Three Kingdoms
• 13th Century Mongol Invasions
• 16th Century Invasion and Occupation of Japan
• Aided U.S. in the Vietnam War
• Currently aiding the U.S. in Iraq
• 1950 Invasion of North Korea began the Korean War – A cease fire was signed
in 1953, but technically the country remains at war.

The museum is said to be on of the largest in the world. Outside of the museum, visitors can walk through various monuments and displays. Military equipment is also on display –we spent an entire hour looking at the outside displays before even stepping inside.





The museum is interesting because it contains artifacts of war as well as symbolic tributes. I was highly impressed with the layout of the museum. The displays varied from paintings, to artifacts, to videos, to digital reenactments, life-size models, and so much more! The museum is clean, simple, and easy to follow. One could spend hours there! We browsed the various displays for over two hours and still didn’t see everything! One particular display even had life-like mannequins and villages depicting life as a refugee during the Korean war.





The museum is education as well as emotional. It is a great tribute to all of those who have died in conflicts of past and a warning to those who will join in conflicts of the future. One can only hope they won’t need to add new display anytime soon. (The final picture depicts two Korean brothers fighting on opposing sides during The Korean War - Although they meet on the battlefield; they find forgiveness and understanding.)